There’s really only one reason to visit Siem Reap and that’s to see Ankor Wat, the biggest religious monument in the world. Ankor was built in the 12th century and took 30 years to build. I guess Rossi was working on that job.
Most people who come here get up at 4am to see the sunrise over Ankor Wat, but we decide that we’d rather go later thus avoiding the early morning crowds and with the added bonus of not having to deal with two irritable children all day who’ve been up since before a sparrow’s fart. Wandering around a bunch of old temples doesn’t rate very highly on a 3 and 7 year olds list of great ways to spend a day, so we set off with our driver and guide at a sedate 8am.
The drive up to see Ankor Wat passes alongside the beautiful man made moat, 5km long, which surrounds the whole temple. I know I’m meant to rave about the beauty of Ankor Wat in the morning light here, but actually, the moat was the most beautiful sight at that time in the morning, with the sunlight just glinting off the water. The temple itself is part of a huge complex and is full of very intricate carvings of the Hindu battles between the gods and the demons. Interesting to see if you ever find yourself in this part of the world, but not nearly so stunning, for me, as Bayon, the temple with huge faces carved into the stone. Last on our list was Ta Prohm, famously known as the temple where Tomb Raider was filmed. This place is amazing. Unlike most of the other temples which fill this area, the jungle has only been partially cleared here and it’s now very much a match between jungle vs. temple for King of the Jungle. Huge silk-cotton trees and strangler figs are growing amongst the stones and there’s some huge trees growing on top of the temple, the massive roots pushing down through the stones to reach the jungle floor. As the roots get larger, the stones are pushed apart and the temple is literally held up by the roots of the trees. When the tree dies and falls over, it takes a large chunk of the masonry with it.
We’re growing to love bite-sized chunks of history, such as our hour scoot around museums and palaces before they close for a 2 hour lunch break and this proves to be a perfect bite-sized visit to 3 very different temples. The great thing about having a guide, rather than taking a tour, is he can give you quick, concise directions “over here you will see…..up there…..down here…..want to see more? No, ok, let’s go”. Leave home at 8am, back home by 3.30pm with uncomplaining kids – always a bonus. Will’s decided his favourite was the mother of all wats, Ankor, Ruby likes Ta Prohm, I like Bayon and Harley just wants to play with his cars.
Siem Reap itself is a great little town. We’d got the local bus up from Phnom Pehn which took 6 hours and an hour or so into the journey, Will had mentioned how, this being the 27th November…..except it was 26th November, meaning we’d checked out of Phnom Pehn one day early and now had nowhere to stay tonight. And we’ve been having a nightmare finding places to stay as it’s high season. Cut a long story short, we end up staying one night in Villa Eurasian, a family house with a couple of rooms to rent. Upon arrival, in the dark, we’re deposited hungry and tired at a house with nothing to eat or drink. We’re directed to Café Eurasian which has the same owner as the Villa. First impressions aren’t good, with a big green neon sign, but inside was gorgeous with abstract art sculptures scattering the gardens and paintings by the niece of John Constable, Sasha. Great French food and such a friendly French host, we knew he’d been living abroad for some time!
Our next morning move to La Villa Loti and everything is right with the world. A great 2 bed room with the loveliest staff and just a little way out of town. We use the pools of the nearby Sofitel and Meridien when we need to cool down and go into town when we fancy some shopping at one of the two markets. There’s a great bakery, some lovely restaurants, $8 massages and good shops.
Will, as Chief Educator, has been teaching Ruby all about the various religions here and she’s now keen to see some of the Apsara dancing which is depicted all over Ankor Wat. The Temple Bar has a passable free show which saves us shelling out US$ 39 each to see it at the Sofitel. I, as Head of Research, get to sit in the Blue Pumpkin, with their free WiFi access and sort out our next accommodation (and log onto Facebook) whilst Will finishes off homework with her. I’m loving Siem Reap. We’ve got a one night stopover in Ho Chi Minh before our flight out to Hong Kong so I find a hotel, book it and pay online. Done. Now, Karen is….all sorted.
Our flight is at 5.30pm, arriving Ho Chi Minh one hour later and then our flight out to Hong Kong is 11.40 the next morning. Or not. Trying to check in at the airport, there seems to be a problem. I notice that they’re writing out baggage tags to check our bags right through to Hong Kong but we were expecting to pick them up at Ho Chi Minh, so we open each bag to take out clean set of underwear, plus the wash bag. This draws the attention of Big Boss who asks where we plan to stay tonight. I give him the details of the hotel, but he tells us that, without a new Vietnam visa, we won’t be allowed to leave the airport. We assure him that we checked it all out with a travel agent in Vietnam and that we can have a 24 hour stopover without a visa. True, he tells us, but that 24 hours must be spent in the airport, therefore we’ll have to spend the night on the floor at Ho Chi Minh airport, not known for it’s comfortable sleeping arrangements. He suggests that we try to change our flight out to Hong Kong for a later one that next day, then come back tomorrow to take the first flight to Ho Chi Minh, thus negating a 5 hour stopover instead of a 17 hour one. It’s Sunday evening and the offices of all the airlines are closed, we can’t get the telephone number of Ho Chi Minh airport from anywhere, the internet isn’t working, our original flight has just left and we’re now stuck not knowing what to do. I take an executive decision and we pile back into a tuk-tuk, which gets lost on the way back, and risk our luck back at Villa Loti in the hope they’ll have a room for us. We arrive in darkness as there’s a power cut but at least we can have our old room back. I head out into the darkness into town and am delighted to see the lights of Blue Pumpkin shining brightly. Half an hour later and the flights are changed so I celebrate with 2 glasses of wine and some spring rolls. Karen is…delighted not to be sleeping on the airport floor.
Back to the airport in the morning where we’re greeted by Big Boss and given VIP treatment at check-in. Shame we don’t also get an upgrade but with Ruby and Harley looking more like Mowgli as each day goes on, it’s not too surprising.
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