Islas Flotantes – The Uros floating islands.

The floating islands are really quite remarkable and unlike anything I have ever seen anywhere else. Made from woven tortura reeds, these islands are home to several hundred people who still live here, in the middle of the lake in isolation.

To make the islands, reeds are anchored to roots at the bottom of the lake some 20m below and then more tortura reeds are layered on top to a thickness of about 1 metre. On top of these, small houses made of reeds are built and whole families live together in these one room houses with the most basic of facilities. The mattress is another layer of reeds, on top of which is laid a blanket, although the chief of one of the islands did have a small solar panel which powered a small tv and a single lightbulb.

As the reeds underneath rot, the top layers are constantly replaced giving the whole island a spongy texture which moves slightly as you step onto it. The tortura reed is used for everything here, including making boats which range from small, basic canoe-style vessels to large elaborate Viking warrior style warships complete with dragons head which are large enough to carry our party of 20 or so.

The Uros tribe began their floating existence centuries ago in an effort to isolate themselves from the aggressive Collas and Incas. Today, they still fish, hunt birds and live off the lake plants in a very primitive manner. The only slightly annoying thing is that they constantly try to sell you their handicrafts which are also made of tortura reeds when we’re most interested in learning about their cultures. Will relents and buys a couple of small boats from the chief when he discovers that he has a girl of 8 and a boy of 4, same as us.

It’s dark by the time we leave and getting absolutely freezing out here in the middle of the lake. I have no idea how these people all keep warm during the night under their one thin blanket atop their bed of reeds, but we’re all back on the boat and breathing into our hands to warm up. Maybe that’s why all the members of the family share a bed.